Some months ago a few friends of mine decided we needed to do a cross-country road trip as we had a
vehicle to ourselves, and had had too much of Colombo. After carefully studying the island on Google maps we plotted out our basic route, choosing to head towards the hills of the Uva province and proceed from there.
This impromptu road-trip led to the discovery of Ella, a little town known for its breathtaking views that range from valleys and hues of greens and blues, to even as far as the South Coast on days of good visibility.
A few months later three of us decided to revisit Ella, with more time on our hands but no vehicle, we decided to take the Badulla train from the Colombo Fort railway station. The train leaves at 5.55a.m., 9.45a.m., and 8.00 p.m. and generally takes about nine to 10 hours to reach Ella. A second class ticket costs under Rs. 500. We passed the time with a guitar and singing songs, taking breaks as we tired our voices, sipping coffee from the canteen and eating dodgy vades and malu paan. I do not recommend food from the canteen, it would be best to take food along with you. Towards the latter half of the journey, as the concrete gives way to the browns and greens of the hillside landscape, our attention was drawn outward towards the hills, the trees, and the mist. The Badulla train is known for its scenic route, if booked ten days ahead one can get hold of an observation class ticket which allows you to really take in all of the scenery.
Making our way out of the station we find ourselves surrounded by greenery, a light rain falling over our heads. We took a van to the guest house, with no idea how to find the place we had stayed at before. After failed attempts at directing the driver in the dark, we decided get off and look for an alternative.
This wasn’t a pleasant experience. Over the three months since our last visit, the guest house owners had taken cue to hike up prices due to the increased influx of tourists. We expected to find a decent room for Rs. 800 as the last time, but instead found that no one would give us a room for under Rs. 2000. On the tight budget that we were on, this was a major mood-kill. While one of us decided to go look for rooms, the rest of us visited the “Curd Shop” that was apparently a restaurant, and made orders for food. They took their own sweet time in serving us our food, as the tables next to us were full of foreigners, who seemed to have no trouble getting their orders to their tables.
With only a handful of restaurants, hotels and guest houses, there isn’t much to expect from the cuisine in Ella. You get your standard paan, pol sambol and parippu in the mornings. Or you can try out the “Curd Shop” that basically sells curd and kithul treacle. We argued over what exactly constitutes chicken fried rice when we were served vegetable fried rice along with a side-dish of chicken curry, though both were fairly mediocre, and way overpriced at Rs. 400. We couldn’t help but feel as though they were catering only to foreigners.
By the time our friend returned finding us a room, our food had finally arrived. Afterwards we walked through the slippery sloped streets to find our guesthouse. Fairly decent, a double-bed, a ceiling fan, clean soft sheets, but certainly not worth Rs. 2000. Sights to see in Ella include the little Adam’s Peak (no competition to the original) which is a breathtaking vantage point for overlooking the valleys and landscape, a view that stretches miles along the provinces, and Ravana Falls. However, disenchanted by Ella’s recent
The bus to Badulla takes only about an hour, though the intercity express buses than run through Bandarawela, Wellayawaya and Badulla will get you there in 30 minutes. Once you arrive at the bus depot it is fairly easy to find your way around. The city is fairly developed, the people unobtrusive and seemingly friendly. We asked around and found our way towards the nearest bank and Cargills Supermarket. Enlisting the help of a trishaw driver we managed to find a guesthouse with a double-room for Rs. 1000. We weren’t greeted by much of a view, unless you could count the abandoned sports complex that was now being used as a landfill. The town is pleasant to walk around, though there aren’t too many sights to see. There is the Dutch Fort, though we didn’t have time to take a look-see. After some rest we went back to the bus depot to take a bus to Dunhinda Falls, just about 20 minutes from the town via the Badulla-Mahiyangana Road.
In order to witness the waterfall you need to walk about one kilometer along a footpath that at points curves precariously around the hill. There are adequate railings, and the path is generally quite safe. Along the way you’ll find a few vendors selling pani dodam, and frying patties. You’ll also encounter monkeys. Yes, monkeys that want your food. The vendor tells us of how they will sometimes steal from customers. I had the misfortune of attracting their attention. Not just one, but five of them, on all corners as I walked along the path they followed me, knowing I was carrying food. Unnerved I threw the patties away, to avoid what seemed like an inevitable mugging.
The path to the waterfall itself it quite pleasant to the eyes, earthy, with rather majestic trees hovering above you, you begin to forget that you’re on a path and not in a rainforest. At the end of the foothpath there is a concrete platform meant for viewing the waterfall.
According to folklore, the Badulla valley was once flooded due to the river being blocked by a wild creeper that grew where the Dunhinda Falls begins its drop. A subject of the king was commissioned to remove the creeper and save the valley. Dunhida translates to “vapour waterfall”, with “dun” meaning “given” and “hinda” meaning “evaporate”. The water falls as if it were a thin cloud, from a height of 60 meters (193 feet), the backdrop being known as “Dunhinda Adaviya”.
We were joined by one of the monkeys as we watched the water in a trance. We pulled out the guitar and sang songs with the sound of crashing water in the background.
Some attempted to climb further down and cross the river in order to get a better perspective of the waterfall, but this is not safe and I wouldn’t recommend it for the faint of heart. Although 60 meters may not seem like much for a waterfall, there is something about this place that makes you want to stay there, transfixed.